Jim and I recently returned from a much needed break – a brief, but relaxing holiday on the Hawaiian island of Kauai. Kauai has been described as the most lush and tropical of the islands, a virtual garden of delight. Its vast, craggy mountains, covered in textured shades of green, form a continuous backdrop. And in the foreground, never have we seen happier looking foliage on palm trees, or more colourful flame trees, virtually filling canyons for as far as the eye could see. Stunning. You can’t go wrong.
But for us, what was different on this week long holiday was that we stayed the whole time at an anonymous timeshare condo community, rather than breaking up our time with B & B’s and hotels. The difference was very noticeable to us, and definitely not in a good way.
This caused us to reflect upon what we try to do at our B & B, Seasons Above the Bay, in Cowichan Bay, and what we’ve noticed that other B & B owners do for us when we stay with them.
If you’ve never stayed at a B & B, and maybe can’t imagine doing so, it’s the personalized, yet not obtrusive element that I’m trying to describe here. A B & B, at its best, brings together a group of people who are all intent on exploring an area with sound, reliable advice so that they don’t waste time with things that are really not worth the expense and trouble, or more importantly, don’t miss out on things that are so unique and special they can literally make your holiday. What we realized this time around is just how much it’s about the people, and about the conversations you’d never get to have if you weren’t a part of such a group. We really missed the personalized service and the conversation that make staying at a great B & B the backbone of a wonderful holiday.
Generally speaking, it begins and ends at the breakfast table. I can’t tell you how many times people have sat down at our dining room table, or at the garden breakfast table in the summer, not knowing who was going to be sitting across from them, but knowing it would be a kindred spirit. So many times people began as complete strangers, but departed as friends, sharing really new ideas and exchanging information, helping each other out. It makes for a rich, tapestry-like experience, and somehow the whole thing just runs deeper. This is why people return again and again, seeking that real connection to deepen their own experience. If that sounds a little heavy for a holiday, I’m missing the mark a bit. It’s a happy thing, and one wants to repeat it again and again. This makes one a B & B convert, and I’m happy to say that that is what Jim and I are.
Yes, Kauai was beautiful, and Jimmy Oliver and I rarely run out of conversation. The best thing about us is the delight we take in cracking each other up, and there was no shortage of that. But some of our best moments were spent in friendly conversation with locals, yakking over breakfast at Hemingway Art Cafe in Kapa’a, or happenstance life talk with a young man on Hapuna Beach. It’s about people. (And chickens and kitties, of course, you cannot go to Kauai without meeting a ton of each of them.) But truly, we regret the condo. It didn’t measure up for us, and a big ‘something’ was just missing. Next time, the human connection: we’ll read the reviews carefully, and book ourselves into some great B & B’s. No regret.
One thing I know for sure: James Oliver never set out to become a farmer.
He may be an animal lover by nature. And he is blessed (or cursed) with a natural inclination to make anyone or any thing within his personal range as comfortable as possible.
He also finds it very difficult to say ‘No’ when his wife is pressing and persistent, which she may have been about acquiring backyard chickens. What could be more logical, after all, than an ongoing supply of fresh eggs for a B & B?
But he NEVER set out to become a farmer. Which makes it all the more entertaining to watch him every day, as he attempts to keep 5 extra females (Rhode Island Red hens, to be exact) satisfied with their lot in life.
The thing is, it’s he who has set the boundary impossibly high, through his own determined catering to these layabout ladies. They seem to be the first thing on his mind every morning: got to let the chickens out. So out he goes. He stops at the first station he’s created, in an effort at efficiency. The lid comes off the Rubbermaid, and on go the rubber boots. Up he treks to the gate, the one and only time this day when he will go through it unimpeded by the 5 cluckers. It closes behind him, and instinctively, he threads the latch shut against invading puppy dogs. Over to the hen house, he enters, and pulls carefully on the levered rope, which in turn pulls up the vertical trap door. And out march the 5 girls, lock step and in their pecking order.
His sigh at this point is an audible one. I fancy I can hear it from the kitchen. In he comes, muttering epithets under his breath: ‘damn chickens….stupid chickens….’ It’s hard to believe he really means it, however, because with his next breath, he wonders aloud at what I might have to include in what he calls their ‘first breakfast’. He knows that I will be preparing multitudes of fruit at this point, fashioning it into fruit cups or yogurt and fruit parfaits for our guests. What I’ve come to understand is that there had definitely better be leftovers for the little dears. Because they’ll expect it. In addition to the various other high protein grainy selections, available throughout the day, they will, in fact, expect it twice daily.
Oh, the lengths to which he’ll go. It isn’t just the food itself, it’s also about the delivery systems. I never thought of James as overly neat, but he’s truly struggled to grasp the low standard which hens will accept while eating their food. For example, if they have to stand in it while they eat it, that’s OK. And if nature calls, again while they’re eating, well, whatever. Just keep chowing down. He watched this for awhile (now you know something about the origin of ‘Stupid chickens…’) but finally, he couldn’t stand it. System after system had to be created so that the hens didn’t just ‘live’ in everything they tried to eat.
Buckets were purchased, appropriately sized drill bits rented, and holes that were just big enough to comfortably allow a head and neck to enter, but not get caught leaving, were made at just the right height. The buckets were filled then, with different types of grains, and water, and then hung from the ceiling of the hen house common area. Success! No more standing or pooping in their basic foods.
The fruits and veg that came twice daily posed a different problem. James had tried placing them on pieces of plywood, or the rubber lids of boxes. To no avail; those girls would crush together as they fought for the best position to explore and see what goodies had been brought this time. The standing and the pooping were rampant, not to mention the flies that began to infest the areas of the ground where they were fed. This called for guerilla tactics. I could see the wheels turning slowly in his head, as he imagined solutions to this one.
Then one day, he had it! Very ingenious. A length of wide PVC pipe was cut to a 3 foot length. But this time, instead of holes, nearly the entire upper surface of the pipe was removed, leaving a good sized opening that ran practically its length. Next, a pair of crossed one by fours, secured fairly close to the ground, became de facto legs for what really looked like a manger.
And, in fact, it was,. Now, when James arrives with the morning fruit salad, or the evening salad bar selection, it goes neatly into the trough, and the ladies peck away at it. No standing, no pooping. Genius.
Not a farmer, exactly, but there is little doubt that the ‘ladies’ know they have James on a short leash. Still, when was the last time you got anything in return from a pet, or a child, for that matter, besides love, of course? Reliable as the breeze off the bay, those 5 girls fork over at least one egg per day apiece. Sometimes more! Not a bad little arrangement, really.
On Love and Loss, and the Gifts that can’t be Taken
All of us have good times and bad, though we may try to hide the fact. It’s the same with families; sometimes we thrive, and sometimes we struggle. There are times, of course, when the struggles seem great and long. In desperation, we find ourselves beseeching the heavens for relief: then, it is up to us to recognize those much needed gifts when they come our way, even when they take forms we hadn’t dreamed of, and even when they lead ultimately to the mythical Rainbow Bridge.
Nearly 13 years ago, our family was going through such a time. Each of our 3 children felt they were sitting on the edge of a personal precipice. The issues they were dealing with were difficult and ongoing, so that they doubted their abilities to cope. It was a very trying time, and for us, as parents, so often we felt helpless. We needed to stay together, that was for sure. But we needed a little more cement than we currently had.
One thing that occurred to me then was that we had been pet free for several years. We had needed a break, as you so often do after long goodbyes to beloved animals. But now, I could see that we were ready to go back in. And so, one day in group discussion, I let my Gr. 5 class, a lively group of country living ten year olds, know that we were in the market for a kitten; did anyone know of any? A little girl named Victoria shot her hand in the air. “Mrs. Oliver,” she beseeched, “there are kittens living at a house in my neighborhood. There’s no mother there! You have to take some. The boys are mean!”
I assured Victoria that I was interested, and low and behold, a day or two later, her good hearted mother arrived after school with a box filled with adorable kittens. There were at least 6, as I remember, and most of them were gorgeously long haired and charming. But I had been clear in my wants: a male, short haired, marmalade colored.
There was one suitable candidate. And even though I could see that he lacked the more obvious charms of his siblings, he was very cute. I stuck with my original choice. I found a tiny basket and put cozy fabric into the bottom of it. I took my little candidate, and placed him in the basket, and then into a box. He began to mew in great distress.
While I was doing all of this, my student, her mother and the other kittens departed. We didn’t observe this parting, and I thought about it afterwards. How easily we sever these bonds, and never give it another thought. What is it like for these creatures, I wondered often, after the fact.
Still, we were ready to begin a new life, but not before we made a trip to the vet. There was no way that this little monkey would be bringing fleas with him, from his ‘motherless’ home.
The drive to the vet was not a peaceful one, I’m afraid. The poor little fellow was very distressed about this new turn of events. I felt from the get go that he had seen more than his fair share of unpredictable, frightening behavior; was this going to be more of the same? He mewed and mewed, in the loudest little voice, so much more than one would assume his little body could deliver. Nonetheless, we proceeded, and arrived at our destination. I left the tiny boy safely at the bottom of his box, while I went in for the quick purchase. I was fully prepared for the cacophony to continue on our ride home. I was delightfully surprised, then, to open the car door and hear a quiet little kitten. I peaked into his box, and there he was. Snuggled up in the softness, he was peacefully quiet, and I thought to myself, ‘You thought the worst was coming, and it didn’t. This is something new for you, and thank heaven, you’re still open to it.’
I can’t even describe, really, the looks and expressions of absolute delight that came when I introduced this tiny stranger to my 3 struggling kids. He charmed them instantly. And while they would all take turns playing with and loving him, it was the eldest who took the basket in her finger tips, fell instantly in love, and became the new mama to the kitten who would become our Alfredo.
Of course, a baby animal is all encompassing, and Alfredo was perfect for us. He was such an active little monkey, and was almost literally tireless in his play. But at night, he slept between James and I. And I have to say, a more adorable little face to gaze upon in the middle of the night, I cannot imagine. He was a sweet little one, and we were all very content.
That is why, of course, things could not ‘just be left as they were’. Something was still missing. This was news to me, I have to say. I was feeling quite perfectly contented, as I made my way home on a fabulous late spring day about 2 weeks later. I drove up to the top of our long mountain driveway, and noticed a little gang of 3 waiting there for me. James was about to head off to work, having just retrieved the boys from school. Mike was leaning against his bike, next to his dad’s car, and Tom was throwing his opinion in for good measure. ‘She’ll never let you do it,’ I heard him say to his brother. ‘I don’t think so either,’ added James, corroborating Tom’s thoughts. ‘What??’ I asked in exasperation. If there’s anything that can get me going, it’s people who think they can read my mind.
And that is when I noticed him. Carried close to Mike’s chest, in the hand that wasn’t guiding the bike, I could just make him out. A tiny but filthy black and white fur ball was mewing his opinion in a much smaller and higher voice than the one that came out of Alfredo. It was, indeed, another kitten. And whereas Alfredo in all his tiny-ness resembled a miniature Serengeti lion, this new kitten was nothing like that. He was a panda bear. The most miniscule panda bear you ever saw, but, oh my… I could feel my heart melting uncontrollably. For that little kitten, (and to this day, I feel like a betrayer saying so) was the cutest animal I had ever seen..oh, my.
‘Get him in the car,’ I heard myself saying. What the heck was I doing, and yet, what choice did I have? I was a puddle. ‘His name is Lucky!’ I heard Mike yelling through the open window, and I thought, ‘Yep. Probably right.’ And off we sped, back to the same parking lot, the same vet office, to get the same flea treatment, and a check up. We came out and I put the drops on the back of Lucky’s neck, and then I stared into his truly magical eyes. Not for the last time.
This moment was one we would often look back upon. For Lucky was to become not only a welcome brother to Alfredo, but one of the greatest gifts our family ever received. I have to tell you, however, that Lucky did not come gentle into our family. Here is his story.
James and the boys were driving home from school in the usual manner, coming along the lower mountain road and about to make their turn up, when they could see an oncoming vehicle. When it was fairly close to them, they saw to their horror that a small object was thrown from the open window. According to James, it rolled in the dust and came to a stop at the side of the road. Now, both James and Mike saw this clearly, and they were up front. James is definitely not one given to elaborating the facts or the small details. When he tells me something, I believe it. And so, I believed this. They pulled over and got out. Upon investigation, they found a small, dusty object – a living one! It was a tiny kitten, still alive, and miraculously unharmed, at least from what their eyes could determine.
But here is the rather shocking part of the story. They didn’t bring the kitten home! No. James assured Mike that someone in the adjacent mobile home park would surely fall for a tiny kitten, and take it in. They left it, safely away from the road, and up they came. James got ready for work, and Mike got straight on his bike (I hope I hear applause). Down he came and found the kitten just where they had left it. Unable to ride and carry the kitten at the same time, he snuggled Lucky into his chest and pushed his bike up the hill. And that is where I found them.
I wish this story had an ultimate happy ending, and actually, I guess maybe it does, albeit on another plane from ours entirely. The fact is that we had 12 very happy years with both of these guys. And when James and I moved from the mainland to the Island in 2012, they both came along with us. Here, they settled into what I believe were spectacularly happy years in their lives. Lucky especially was so in tune with nature and just adored the gardens. He spent as much time loving them and patrolling them as he possibly could, and at night, especially this past year, I would find him endlessly star gazing, and I would join him. Alfredo adapted readily and also really enjoyed the warm dry summers and cozy winters. We always felt that they completed our place here, and were charming mascots for our guests. You’ll be glad to hear that, in the past couple of years especially, Alfredo really rose to the occasion, being both a mascot and an ambassador for our B & B. He seemed really in tune with us, and always caught the vibe when new folks were coming. He prided himself on greeting them, and was really a charming guy, but never intrusive. Our guests loved him, as their children adored Lucky.
There is never a good time to lose your pets, and of course, we had hoped for several more years with them, but it was not to be. Too soon, they were taken from us. Lucky sadly passed away while we were far from home this late autumn. Of course, this was traumatizing and confusing for his brother, Alfredo. Sadly, despite his athleticism, and general good health, he passed away this week, from an undetected heart ailment.
And that brings us to the rainbow bridge.
God knows it’s a heartache for us to lose these beloved family members. Time will surely help to ease this, as well as all of our good memories of them. And I have to say that when we returned home yesterday, despite the shock of Alfredo’s loss, I did feel moments of absolute peace. They were together again. Each had crossed the bridge.
And so, despite it all, I will forever be grateful for that particular, long ago, answered prayer.
The Innkeepers Abroad
As nearly all of our guests from last summer surely know, James and I, along with our youngest son, Tom, made an exquisite trip to Italy this past fall.
When I say ‘exquisite’, you know full well that travel is work. Hard work, in fact, and struggle. This wasn’t the sort of deal where you handed over your suitcase at the end of the day to some convivial servant, or got swanned around in the latest overland hovercraft. Nope. We planned and executed this adventure all by ourselves. So, ‘exquisite’? Well….that, I would say, is the take away. When all the dust is cleared, and you just let yourself ‘feel’ what it is you experienced, why not let the cream rise to the top?
A Week in Tuscany
When I think about Italy, I think about golden light. It floods just about every image I can conjure. I think about faces that mainly smiled, and about people who were mainly very warm and enthusiastic. And about landscapes that stunned one with their beauty.
Tuscany really does look like that. Whether villages or cities, history and beauty is everywhere, and I long to return. Sienna, we seem all to agree, went most deeply into our imaginations and into our psyches. The photo above shows the view from our bedroom window. We chose a lovely Siennese B&B, and stayed for several days as we explored the city.
The villa in the photo above is located just outside of the Tuscan walled city of Lucca. Another B&B, we had a remarkable stay with extremely friendly locals. All of this took place at the start of our vacation, and it made it really easy to relax, catch up on sleep, and explore the many hill towns of Tuscany.
And here is the Innkeeper himself, James, looking relaxed and happy from a Tuscan rooftop. We spent our first week in this region, and some of our happiest memories were certainly found here.
Rome. By all means, Rome.
Week two found us in the Eternal City, and what an unbelievable place it is. Even to eyes accustomed to urban European landscapes, Rome is something else again. Everywhere you turn, you are left gasping. History simply surrounds you, and is everywhere underfoot.
It is ancient, but at the same time, stunning and quite clean. It presents itself so grandly! There is nothing understated about Rome.
Our third week found us in Sicily, the lovely island found at the tip of the toe. Sicily was certainly an adventure in itself, and bears its own story telling, so memorable was our time there.
I’ve only just alluded to the actual stories within stories that describe the adventures we had. If you’d enjoy hearing and seeing more about it, just become a follower of our blog, and we’ll send you our tales.
Until next time.